Monday, January 28, 2013

Sunday, January 27th, 2013: Luang Prabang, Laos

This morning we were up very early at 5:30 a.m. to go see the Tak Bat -- The Monks' Alms Procession daily at dawn.  Saffron clad monks pad barefoot through the streets while pious townsfolk place tiny balls of sticky rice in their begging bowls.  It is a quiet, meditative ceremony through which monks demonstrate their vows of poverty and humility while lay Buddhists gain spiritual merit by the act of respectful giving.

If you are wanting to participate in this ritual it is recommended that you get some Kao Kai Noi (the best grade sticky rice) to be cooked to order by your guesthouse.  Or busy it fresh-cooked from the morning market before the procession.  Carry it in a decent rice-basket, not a plastic bag.  Before arriving, dress respectfully as you would for a temple (covered upper arms and chest, skirts for women, long trousers for men).  Wash your hands and don't use perfumes or lotions that might flavour the rice as you are handing it out; remove shoes; put a sash or scarf across your left shoulder; women should kneel with feet folded behind (don't sit), men may stand; avoid making eye-contact with the monks.

These processions occur all over Laos.  However, old Luang Prabang's peaceful atmosphere and extraordinary concentration of mist-shrouded temples means that the morning's alms procession create a specially romantic scene.  We were embarrassed by some tourists who stuck their cameras into the monks' faces trying to get the perfect picture.  However, the procession we witnessed was a fairly quiet one.

After the procession, we went back to our G.H. and packed our knapsacks and had breakfast.  Then we set out on a walking tour of the town.  We strolled through the morning market once again amazed by the sights we saw, including three-inch cockroaches for sale?

Continuing on our walking tour, we visited the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre TAEC.  Here, we learned about northern Laos hill tribes' culture.  Then we proceeded to the That Chomsi Stoupa which is high above the city.  We walked through a very interesting local neighbourhood to get there.  Then we headed along the Mekong Waterfront and had a coffee at one of restaurants along the river taking in the very beautiful view of the river, boats and gardens along the shore of the river.

We crossed the Nam Khan river (which joins the Mekong River) using a bamboo bridge that is only used only in the dry season.  In the rainy season, it is not possible to use the bridge as the water would be above it.  The bridge is not there from June to November. We crossed the river for a well-deserved lunch at the Dyen Sabai.  Here we sat  on recliner cushions in rustic open-sided pavilions that climb the lush wooded slope across the Nam Kham river.  We ate an smoked eggplant dip with an exotic mixture of rice and fish steamed in banana leaf and a pot of green tea -- what a treat of taste and vision.

After lunch we headed back towards our G.H. to pick up our knapsacks.  On the way we visited another Stupa, the famous Wat Xieng Thong.  It is Luang Prabang;s best-known and most visited monastery.


This evening we are catching an overnight bus and going to Vientiane and transferring to another bus going to Tham Kong Lo which is in central Laos as we head towards the border and Cambodia.

Our overnight bus was a VIP bus,  like the last VIP bus we had in Thailand.  We survived our bus trip and were happy to arrive in Vientiane on Monday, January 28th, the capital city of Laos.  Vientiane is not a very vibrant city.  It is described as a sleepy, riverside capital with a handful of temples and an armful of good restaurants, cafes and bars.  Here, we waited for our connection, i.e., small truck picking up several others who were going in our direction, and taking us to the bus station to go to our destination Ban Kong Lo from which we would visit the  Tham Kong Lo cave.  The bus ride to Ban Kong Lo was six hours long as we meandered along to our destination stopping at many villages.


F.Y.I. :  Today is our first 'cloudy' day and we are very thankful for it.

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